Free Energy Developer's Forum

Here is a shopping list of parts required for the circuit:

1 x 2N3055 Transistor
This is an NPN type transistor - Cost approx. £1.50 / €2.50 / $3.00

1 x 1N4001 Diode
(Silicone Fast Switching Diode) - Cost approx. £0.20 / €0.30 / $0.40

1 x 1N4007 Diode
(Silicone Fast Switching Diode) - Cost approx. £0.20 / €0.30 / $0.40

1 x 100 ohm resistor
(at least 1/4 watt but I would recommend 1/2 watt) - Cost approx. £0.20 / €0.30 / $0.40

1 x 1 kilo ohm linear potentiometer
(the higher the wattage the better. Carbon track should be fine.)

1 x Neon Bulb
(NE2 type - wire ended)

Approx. 250g of Enamel Coated 22swg Copper Wire (Magnet Wire)
Cost approx. £6.50 / €8.20 / $12.90

Approx. 250g of Enamel Coated 26swg Copper Wire (Magnet Wire)
Cost approx. £6.50 / €8.20 / $12.90

Approx 2 meters of High Current Wire
This should be more than enough to hook up the batteries - Cost approx. £6.50 / €8.20 / $12.90


The Core
You will also need to use something for your core. Personally, I use iron filings mixed with glue and I am satisfied with the results. However John Bedini recommends using welding rods (0.042" inch diameter copper coated steel rod). You can then bang in as many welding rods as will fill your core. Each of the rods must be electrically insulated from eachother. Most people will let the rods rust for a while, though you can coat them with a genorous layer of nail varnish.... or both... I think there is more siginicance to letting the rods rust but not sure what it is... perhaps someone else can enlighten us!

What you don't want to use for the core is solid iron or steel. One of the key mechanisms to the operation of the ssg is the fast switching of the magnetic field and if you use a solid mass for your core it is likely to create eddy currents that disrupt and prolong the degredation of the magnetic field.

Steel bolts are particularly bad as they retain their magnetism... like when you leave a paper clip on a magnet for a short while you will find the paper clip can attract other paper clips.

Which brings us onto the MAGNETS!

Although several people have reported positive results using Neodymium or Rare Earth Magnets, it is not recommended to use those.

One of the main problems with using extremely strong magnets is that whatever core you are using, it is likey to become magnetic if it is under prolonged exposure to these magnets.

sooooo.... use Ceramics!!! On a small rotor (about the size of a hard drive) you should be ok using 20mm x 10mm x 5mm ceramic magnets. On a rotor the size of a bike wheel you will need larger magnets approx. 50mm x 25mm x 10mm. If you find the magnets are too weak you can always double stack them.

I bought 100 20mm x 10mm x 5mm magnets for about £10 / €15 / $20 which is far more than I need, but like everything listed here, it is good to have spares!

On to the rotor....

There is a large variety of rotors you can use! The most commonly used it an alluminium bike wheel (alluminium is important... NOT steel)... you should be able to fit about 24 magnets to a standard bike wheel and achieve speeds around 200 - 300rpm.

Alot of people also use discraded hard drives... these seem to work well and you should be able to fit about 6 magnets to it and achieve speeds around 1500 - 2000 rpm

I am using a tape head I salvaged from an old VCR. I think it's great! The bearings are very smooth and you can easily mount it on another surface. You will be looking at speeds around 2500rpm and higher. Again, about 6 small magnets should fit comfortably on a rotor this size.

Going even small still, the original schoolgirl motor used a rollerskate wheel with 4 magnets attached to it... Roller blade wheels are probably better. The bearings in these are very good quality and should be able to reach between 3000 - 4000 rpm.

All these speeds are approximation and can vary... don't force your motor to get to these speeds. If you feel the sweet spot is slower then don't push it to go faster.

hmmmm.... that pretty much covers all the parts you will need! You will have to improvise with a framework to mount the ssg and if you don't have an empty spool lying around, again, you will have to improvise.

Batteries

These can be the most expensive part of the set up. For a small motor you may be able to get away with using 1.3ah (amp hour) 12volt Lead Acid Batteries though I would recommend getting at least 7 amp hour batteries. You want the batteries to be big enough so that the motor runs at the "C20 Rate". The Ah of a battery is the amount of amps the battery can supply for one hour... though this is far too high a current for the batteries to supply and will damage them quickly. This is why we use the C20 Rate which is the Amp Hour rating of the battery divided by 20...

for example if your motor is running on 300ma you need a battery that is at least 6 amp hours (0.3 x 20 = 6). Or, to look at it another way, if your battery is rated at 7 amp hours, you shouldn't discharge the battery with more than 350ma (7 / 20 = 350).

a 1.3ah 12v Lead Acid Battery can cost around £12 / €18 / $24
a 7ah 12v Lead Acid Battery can cost around £15 / €22 / $30
a 24ah 12v Lead Acid Battery can cost around £40 / €60 / $80

You will need at least 2 equal sized batteries. These prices are estimates. You should be able to find somewhere that will give you a deal if you buy more than one battery.

Equipment you will need.

At least 1 Multimeter. Digital is ok, though we are using pulse DC in the SSG so when measuring the amps it is highly recommended to use an Analogue Amp Meter that goes up to 1 amp or more. You will need the meters to measure your input amps as well as your battery voltages.

A Laser Tachometer. A laser tachometer measures the rpm of your motor. It is not a neccessary tool when you are starting out but you will be very glad to have one as it benefits fine tuning and you will need it to make an accurate record of your motor's performance.

Soldering Iron... to solder the circuit... kind of goes without saying! The circuit will still operate if the connections aren't soldered though once you are sure it is wired correctly you should solder all the connections.

Where to find all this stuff???

Lead Acid Batteries ->
http://shop.eurobatteries.com/index.php?cPath=25_62

Components ->
http://www.maplin.co.uk/
http://www.radioshack.com/

Magnets ->
http://e-magnetsuk.com/magnet_products/ ... gnets.aspx

Most of these companies are UK Based... If anyone would like to provide additional sources for their country feel free to post!

all the best!
Seph

@ everybody

Hey Introvertebrate im gonna shere with you very good sources for matterials , cheap price good quality but from USA. Here is where i supply my self with alot of good stuf .

www.magnet4less.com
Here you cand find very good quality Magnetic wire for coils and very nice magnets . Compare the Price/Power raport . In any kind they are way more cheaper then your sources .I remeber i compare with a German website and it was like half priced .

and

www.allelectronics.com
Here you can get all electric parts you want still for a very good pirse .

You should take look at the BREADBOARDS . I use them to make the circuit . Is more eficient when you burn your parts and easyer to change them.

And for iron filings you can find them everywhere you just need to type it on google .

Hope you find my sources very usefull .

ThankYou
Mario.

Just wondering, if these electronic componets would be the same regardless of the size of motor, or would they have to upgrade accordingly?

Hi,

That's only for standard basic SSG setup only (using 1 bifillar coil).
You have to put additional electronic component when using Trifillar coil or other additional slave coil.

Selamatg

thanks for the response! you will have to forgive me, I know very little about electrnices and less about bedni motors so I will be asking some dumb questions for a while...lol, when I actully start construsion I will need very detailed instuctions and pics. I thank you for your help so far!

thanks for the response! you will have to forgive me, I know very little about electrnices and less about bedni motors so I will be asking some dumb questions for a while...lol, when I actully start construsion I will need very detailed instuctions and pics. I thank you for your help so far!

Hi
I now have all the components accept the Neon Bulb ne2 but I can’t seem to find them.

Could some one post me a link so I get the right one?

Thanks

Hi...

Usually very easy to get from radio shack , at least at my place.
Most people is call Lamp indicator for Flatirons.

http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl ... 2~usa.html


The link didn't work just by clicking the link (for some reason)
juct copy then paste will work okay...

Hope will help

just wanted to add a tip for people who dont use guage....
here s a comparison chart.

Hi All,

I'm new to this. I have made a list of all parts to build Introvertibrates motor to be ordered from Farnell. I buy a lot of stuff from Farnell for my business, so that is the easiest for me. But I can't seem to find the NE2 neon bulb. A lot of others though, can easily use a different type of neon bulb ? I don't understand yet exactly why the bulb is used, except that it is for safety, so I'm not sure what a good replacement would be. I have chosen a T2 bulb with Farnell partno 1139251. Does anyone know whether that would be ok ? A link to the productspecs is below.

Hope someone knows. Many thanks in advance !

Ben Hans

Farnell neon bulb

Hi Ben

Firstly welcome to the site!!

The link to the neon bulp looks exacly like to one's that i use. The only thing to make sure about is the voltage. It must be a 90v neon bulb.

The reason for the bulb is to protect your transistor. When your transistor goes over 90v it will get fried and you will have to replace it. I have spend a small fortune on transistors until i finally installed mine. (Very important) Since then i have only lost one due to some experimentation with a 555 chip and large caps. But i have seen the neon lit up a lot of times!

Good luck
JW

Hi Jan-Willem,
Thank you very much for your extremely quick reply and your welcome. It has a maximum striking voltage of 95Vac according to the specs, so I guess that's ok.
I'm very curious how it will all work out. I will report my experiences on this site when I got it running of course. Thanks.
Ben

Hi Jan-Willem,

After reading your message again, I think I'm mistaking. I understand now that the neon bulb is used to limit the voltage to 90V in case a 90V bulb is used. In my case it will be limited to 95V, which is a bit more. The maximum voltage between collector and emitter according to the transistor specs is 60V though. All of the 2N3055 versions from Farnell, quite a few different ones, seem to have that Vceo rating. Am I thinking correctly ?

Thanks for your help.

Ben

One version of 2N3055 transistor from farnell